Waterfall Ice: Jeff Lowe's Climbing Techniques - Black Diamond - Vintage - Pal VHS

Waterfall Ice: Jeff Lowe's Climbing Techniques - Black Diamond - Vintage - Pal VHS

Follow top rock climber, Bird Lew, from her first tentative crampon steps through the waterfall ice climbing progression to her graduation climb on one of North America's hardest mixed routes. Thorough explanations and demonstrations of Jeff Lowe's innovative and little-known techniques are augmented by gear/apparel recommendations. The video is structured in six parts:

Part 1: Hardware and Equipment: the tools and gear neces-sary for waterfall ice climbing.

Part 2 An Introduction to Waterfall Ice (Class 1 through 4): flat-foot cramponing, hedging, use of a single handtool on class 2 terrain, two tools on class 3 and 4 ice, accurate, efficient axe placement, ice screw removal, a preview of vertical ice, and bollard cutting.

Part 3: Advanced Waterfall Ice (Class 5 and 6): toproped vertical climbing with no handtools, the monkey hang, placing protection on the lead, the use of natural handholds on the ice, natural protection, standard belay set-ups, flagging for bal-ance, pigeon-toe frontpointing, diagonal traverses, cross-over tool placements, the problems of pencil-chandelier conditions, overhanging mushrooms, hollow tubes, and many other advanced pure-ice challenges. An introduction to mixed rock and ice techniques is also included.

Part 4: Boots and Clothing: the layering system of dressing for cold-weather conditions, special features of good ice-climbing boots, accessories including socks, gaiters, gloves, hats, eyewear, and helmets.

Part 5: Mixed Rock and Ice (Class 6 and 7): thin-ice technique, dry tooling, kneelocks, hip and shoulder scums, extreme torqueing, overhanging tiebacks, the gorilla grunt for passing roofs, the orangutan hang for turning curtains, V-threads as clean-ice anchors, screws in series on thin ice, and the figure 4 for the most extreme climbs.

Part 6: Beyond Technique: the balance problems of climbing with a pack, how to prepare mentally as well as physically for a hard new route (illustrated by Octopussy, class 8, in Vail, Colorado, and the first ascent of a new class 6+ or 7-mixed climb in the Adirondacks), and the philosophical and safety considerations of solo climbing (illustrated by the first solo ascent of Positive Thinking, a 5- classic on Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks of New York state).

Running time: 180 MINS APPROX

*Exempt From Classification

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